FAQ - Choosing a Bonsai Pot

Pines suggest strength, stability and a very natural feel. That’s why we almost always use unglazed pots, in understated colors such as brown, grey, beige or terracotta.

In terms of shape, rectangular pots are the most common, as they reinforce the tree’s powerful character. Oval shapes can also work for a slightly softer look.

Avoid bright or glossy colors: they would draw too much attention and break the natural feel of the pine.

👉 See pots suitable for pines.

Junipers follow similar rules to pines: unglazed pots in natural tones (brown, grey, earth tones) are preferred.

They allow a bit more freedom, however: if the tree is very dynamic, you can choose a slightly more expressive shape.

If you’re a beginner, keep it simple: an unglazed oval or rectangular pot works in most cases.

👉 See pots for junipers.

Maples are more delicate trees and change a lot throughout the seasons. So glazed pots are often used.

Common colors include soft green, blue, cream, or warm tones reminiscent of autumn.

Oval shapes are particularly suitable, but shallow rectangles also work very well. The goal is to highlight the foliage without stealing the show.

👉 See pots for maples.

Ficus is a very forgiving tree, ideal for beginners. It works well with both glazed and unglazed pots.

Colors like brown, black, dark green or muted blue work very well.

If you’re unsure, choose a simple, understated pot — it’s rarely a mistake.

👉 See pots for ficus.

Flowering bonsai are generally paired with glazed pots that complement the blooms.

Soft or light colors such as white, cream, blue or pale pink work well. You can also create a gentle contrast with the flower color.

Avoid very dark pots, which may visually dull the flowering.

👉 See glazed pots for flowering bonsai.

For an outdoor bonsai, choose a pot made of stoneware (glazed or unglazed), as this material resists frost and moisture well.

Avoid earthenware, which is too porous and fragile outdoors.

All Greg-Ceramics pots are made of stoneware, suitable for winter conditions.

For a litterati-style bonsai, choose a round or oval, shallow pot with a matte glaze or unglazed finish.

These simple, discreet shapes and finishes highlight the elegance and fine, sinuous trunk typical of this style.

The choice mainly depends on the tree’s style.

A round pot brings softness and suits slender or elegant trees.

A rectangular pot gives more structure and strength, ideal for conifers.

If in doubt: choose a rectangle for a strong tree, and a round pot for a lighter or more delicate one.

The oval pot is discreet and highlights the tree without imposing itself. It’s often the safest choice.

The rectangular pot is more visually assertive and draws more attention. It suits powerful trees well.

Yes, of course. These shapes are not forbidden, but they do require a bit more understanding when choosing.

In many cases, beginners are advised to stay with simple shapes like oval or rectangle. It is a good base, because these shapes are easy to pair and work in most situations.

But it is important to understand that some so-called “more elaborate” shapes are really just variations of these classic forms.

For example, a mokko is simply a more expressive oval. It follows the same logic, but adds an extra intention: more elegance, more refinement.

These pots work particularly well with:

• slender and elegant trees
• deciduous or flowering trees
• soft or light compositions

On the other hand, they are often less suitable for powerful or massive trees, where a simpler pot remains more coherent.

👉 A simple rule: the pot should accompany the tree. If it draws more attention than the tree, it is probably too dominant.

see lotus pots

With feet: elegant for round or oval pots, they highlight lightness and suit Japanese styles. They also promote aeration and drainage.

Without feet: sleek and modern, they suit rectangular pots or trees with a very marked trunk. More stable and easier to clean, but less effective for drainage.

For a Moyogi-style bonsai, choose a classic and balanced pot (oval or rectangular with rounded corners).

This informal and natural style harmonizes with simple shapes that do not overshadow the tree, while enhancing its relaxed elegance.

👉 See also the pot shapes guide.

No, it’s not a defect—it’s a technical and aesthetic solution!

Why this rim?

On pots with straight walls (no outward rim), if the wall is too thin, the pot can look fragile or disproportionate to its size. The inner rim visually thickens the top of the pot, improving its overall consistency and aesthetic balance.

During repotting?

Yes, an internal rim (or a curved shape) can make repotting slightly more technical: you need to trim the roots around the root ball with a hand saw or knife before removing the tree. This is a normal step, especially for mature trees or those with a dense root system.

Final word

If you don’t like inner rims and aren’t comfortable with them during repotting, then simply don’t use them—but don’t call them bad pots out of ignorance 😉.
Potters in Tokoname have been making curved or inner-rimmed pots for generations for the same reasons: their pots are world-renowned bonsai references, and no one has ever questioned them!

Simple rule: conifers (pine, juniper…) usually go in unglazed pots, while deciduous and flowering trees are often paired with glazed pots.

It’s not an absolute rule, but it works in most cases.

👉 See pots for conifers.

👉 See pots for deciduous trees.

Two approaches work well:

Harmony: choose a color close to the foliage (green, brown…)

Contrast: create a soft opposition (green foliage with a blue pot, red foliage with a cream pot…)

Avoid overly bright or aggressive colors.

👉 See the color guide.

Yes, absolutely. Black is a neutral, elegant and easy-to-match color.

It’s a bit like a black suit: it works in almost any situation.

If in doubt, it’s often a safe choice.

👉 See dark pots (black, brown, grey).

Yes, and it’s a common practice among potter artisans. A decorated pot (pattern, sculpture, painting, engraved name) can :

• Enhance an idea: evoke a place, a season, a context, or a specific vision of the tree, much like a kakemono.
• Add a unique touch: a signature, a symbolic pattern, or painted decor can elevate the piece and create harmony with the tree or its setting.

Potters often offer unique or small-series pots with patterns or designs tailored to the tree.

👉 See a selection of decorated pots.

A common rule is to choose a pot whose length is about 2/3 of the tree’s height.

The pot depth often matches the trunk diameter at the base.

These are guidelines, to be adapted depending on the tree’s style.

👉 A tool is available to help you find the right size.

A pot that is too large gives a weak impression — the tree feels lost.

A pot that is too small can cause cultivation issues, especially for the roots.

The goal is to find a balance between aesthetics and tree health.

👉 A tool is available to help you choose the right size.

The depth of the pot mainly depends on the type of tree and its style.

Powerful trees or those with a thick trunk usually require deeper pots.

Slender and elegant trees are generally paired with shallower pots.

A pot that is too deep makes the tree look visually heavy, while a pot that is too shallow can weaken it.

👉 See shallow pots.

👉 See deep pots.

✅ Yes:

• Excess water → root rot
• Roots spread instead of thickening → weakening the tree
• Aesthetic imbalance

⚠️ Pot width ≈ 2/3 of the tree’s height.

❌ No:

• The goal is to trim the roots and refresh the substrate, not to increase pot size.
• A pot that’s too large promotes excess moisture and chaotic root growth.
• When to go bigger? Only for young, fast-growing bonsai.

👉 A tool is available to help you choose the right size.

No. Repotting should be done during the repotting season, usually in spring.

Yes, significantly. The pot influences drainage, water retention, and root development.

A poor choice can slow growth or weaken the tree.

No, a pot doesn’t need to be expensive… but the price often reflects something.

You can easily find cheap pots in garden centers, often sold as “frost-proof” or stoneware. In reality, many are not suitable for outdoor use: they may be underfired or even earthenware, and can end up cracking or breaking in frost.

On the other hand, a quality pot (especially from a bonsai potter) is usually made from real high-fired stoneware. It is designed to withstand time, frost, and outdoor conditions.

These pots are also often more refined, with more interesting shapes, textures, and glazes that better enhance the tree.

👉 In short: a cheap pot can work, but if your bonsai is meant to stay outdoors year-round, it’s better to choose a truly frost-resistant and durable pot.

Cheap pots bought in garden centers, after a few years outdoors. Despite being sold as “frost-proof”, they cracked and eventually broke due to frost.

Ask yourself a simple question: does anything feel visually off?

If the answer is no, your choice is probably good.

When in doubt, simplify: neutral color, simple shape. It’s rarely a mistake.

Unless you’re aiming for a major international exhibition, the most important thing is that you like the pot.

The two terms are often confused, but they don’t mean the same thing.

Repotting involves removing the tree from its pot, working on the roots (pruning, cleaning), and then planting it in fresh substrate. It is an essential step for the health of the bonsai.

Slip potting simply means changing the pot without touching the roots. The root ball remains intact and substrate is added around it.

Slip potting can be useful in certain situations (broken pot, unsuitable pot…), but it does not replace proper repotting.

👉 In short: repotting = root work, slip potting = simple pot change.

A bonsai pot generally has:

• drainage holes for water
• smaller holes to secure the tree with wire

The number may vary depending on the size of the pot, but it must always allow good drainage and secure anchoring.

👉 A pot without proper drainage should be avoided.

Ceramic (stoneware) :

• ✅ Best choice: Durable, aesthetic, and allows good moisture regulation thanks to its porosity. Ideal for all types of bonsai. The traditional pot par excellence.
• ⚠️ Note: Choose stoneware pots (frost-resistant), not earthenware (too porous) or industrial under-fired stoneware (garden pots).
• ❌ Downsides: Often more expensive. Fragile if dropped.

Plastic :

• ✅ Practical and affordable: Lightweight, easy to clean, and suitable for young or training bonsai. Good drainage if well pierced.
• ❌ Downsides: Less aesthetic, less durable, and less breathable than ceramic. Suitable for cultivation only, never for display.

Cement :

• ❌ Avoid: Often alkaline (risk to roots). Requires painting for aesthetics, but paint peels after a few seasons. Unsuitable for bonsai traditions. For cheap pots, prefer plastic.

Japanese pot :

• Why is it talked about? Linked to centuries-old tradition, artisanal know-how, and a natural aesthetic (unglazed or glazed stoneware/clay).
• Common misconceptions: not all are handmade by solitary artisans. Some models are mass-produced in workshops using molds and industrial processes. Quality varies greatly.
• Ecology: shipping pots by boat from the other side of the world has an environmental cost. Consider local or European potters if ecology is a factor.

European pot :

• Why choose it? European potters, trained in traditional (even Japanese) techniques, create unique pieces suited to a wide range of styles and trees.
• Advantages: potentially more original, better suited to varied budgets, and often cheaper than high-end but mass-produced "made in Japan" pieces.

How to decide?

• For a very traditional style or a very Japanese tree: an artisanal Japanese pot (check origin and process).
• For a Western tree, a contemporary style, or a limited budget: a European pot, especially if handmade.
• In all cases: prioritize soil quality (stoneware rather than earthenware for outdoor), drainage, and harmony with the tree.

• Soft brush : Use a soft-bristled brush (like a toothbrush or nylon brush) to remove soil, limescale deposits, or organic residues.
• Warm water : Gently scrub with warm water and a little mild soap if needed. Avoid harsh chemicals or bleach.
• Drying : Let it air dry in the shade.
• Regular maintenance : Clean the pot after each growing season to preserve its appearance.

🤪 Easy: If it’s signed "Greg-Ceramics" underneath, that’s a good sign… but here are the real criteria :

• Materials : Choose stoneware (durable, porous but not too much), especially for outdoor use. Avoid earthenware (too porous) or cement (poorly suited).
• Finish : No cracks. Tap the pot with your knuckle: a "clean" sound means good firing; a "vibrant" noise indicates a crack.
• Origin : A handmade pot by a serious artisan has more value and character than a mass-produced item from the other side of the world.
• Drainage : Check for sufficient drainage holes and extra holes to tie the tree (often missing on low-quality pots).
• Quality-price ratio : Beware of suspiciously low prices for stoneware. A good pot costs a bit more but lasts for decades.

To find a pot suited to your bonsai, look for :

• Online : Choose websites offering multiple photos (inside/outside), precise dimensions (interior and exterior), provenance, and especially high-temperature firing (over 1200 °C).
• At exhibitions and shows : Nothing beats direct contact with a bonsai-potter to discuss your tree’s needs and examine pots from all angles.
• From a local artisan : Make sure they are a potter who also practices bonsai : this dual expertise is key to getting a truly adapted pot.

👉 See the bonsai pots from Greg-Ceramics : all our pots are handmade in France by a bonsai-potter, fired above 1200 °C, with detailed technical sheets and complete photos.

No, it’s not recommended. Here’s why :

• Drainage : Flower pots often have insufficient or poorly placed holes, leading to excess moisture and root rot.
• Materials : Many are made of plastic or unsuitable earthenware (too porous or alkaline), incompatible with bonsai needs.
• Stability and aesthetics : They don’t support the tree properly and disrupt the visual balance.

Alternative : Choose a bonsai-specific pot in quality stoneware or ceramics, with proper drainage holes.